Ex-White House chef who cooked for 5 presidents reflects on her service, philosophy

Cristeta “Cris” Comerford, the first woman and person of color to serve as the White House executive chef, recently retired after nearly 30 years of cooking for five U.S. presidents. In a new interview with NPR’s Ari Shapiro, 61-year-old Filipino American reflected on her groundbreaking career, unique culinary contributions, and the special moments that stood out during her time in the White House kitchen.

Obama’s love for Filipino-style skewers: One of the interview’s standout moments came in Comerford sharing how former President Barack Obama, who lived in Hawaii and was familiar with Filipino food, enjoyed her Filipino-style skewered pork. “Every now and then I’m, like, on the grill, and he’s like, ‘Hey, is that smelling good right there?’” she recalled, adding that she also prepared beef and chicken versions. For Comerford, it was particularly meaningful to share her Filipino roots and the flavors of her childhood with the president.
Philosophy of American food: Comerford also delved into her culinary philosophy, comparing American cuisine to jazz. “In America, we play jazz,” she explained, likening the fluid and creative nature of American food to the improvisation seen in the genre. To Comerford, American cuisine is shaped by the country’s immigrant communities, creating a melting pot of flavors and techniques. “Every community, every minority group — we’re a land of immigrants, so we share everything we have. By the time a food is made, it’s a totally different one than it was intended to be,” she said, emphasizing the dynamic and evolving nature of American food.

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